Rave on the Runways
It seems like fashion is enjoying a dance on a spectrum of youthful influences: from normcore’s ironic touch of suburban plainness, through the middle ground of basic bitches still lobbying for cozy knits in fall weather, and over to the other side, where vast colors reside and a rainbow of textures have invited the bountiful adventures of rave kids saying to hell with all the normal things.
Not a big surprise here – Jeremy Scott has made his career from creating colorful designs and infused with youth and exploration. This collection, however, with its trippy, spiral patterns and fuzzy textures definitely match the needs of ecstasy-addled party-goers.
This collection was inspired by “the movement of water,” the kind of go-with-the-flow mentality that embodies rave culture. Loose pleather pants, soft pastels, and swirling fabrics paired with leopard prints inspire a type of creative insanity only reserved for the young.
Mixed in with the Chanel giveaway – varying tweeds and a general classiness – Karl Lagerfeld turned purveyors of the brand’s expectations on their heads, imbuing the runway with Warholian pop art references and unconventional pattern choices. Models were dressed in holey Pepto-Bismol pink tracksuits, bright runners, jewels that looked like children’s candies, oversized headphones, and iridescent leggings.
Yohji Yamamoto’s trippy doll-like creatures, dressed in what looks like garbage bag balloons painted with graffiti art and scribbles, look like they’ve come straight out of the imagination of Michael Alig (a couple even appear to look like Jenny Talia in her famous all-black Donahue appearance).
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten had possibly the most elegant display of pattern-mixing and frivolity of color – 2-D and 3-D shapes met in single garments, 60s mod shapes became acquainted with rolling florals, rich magentas and soft oranges mixed fluidly with dynamic greens. There was an elegance in the freedom of it all.