The anatomy of fashion, dissected.
Past En Rogue Entries
Have You Seen Martin Margiela?
Still Trending: Tears
There’s a Scifi Hero Uniform for All of Us
Wash Your Face with This Gross Shit and You‘ll Be Young Forever
Unknowing the Olsen Twins
Bending Gender with Bowie
Listen to the Kids, Brah
Not Quite Finished or Already Taken Apart?
En Rogue by Alex G. Brown
Still Trending: Tears
Being sad never looked so cute.
In 2013, Complex posted a series of photos of models entitled “Are These Runway Models Stoned or Sad?” At the time, when normcore and minimalism were the emerging trends, this review was written in jest and not particularly rooted in any one fashion trend. But if it were to be published today, the same would not be true: thanks to the popularity of sadness on the internet, the clothes too would hold some tie to this theme. From pin-heavy labels touting ironic emotional phrases to sweatshirts reading “Sad Girls Club,” to be sad is now its own fashion trend. And not just that: wearing your feelings on your sleeve has come to signal a new kind of feminine autonomy and strength.
Let’s back up. The “sad girl” as an identity was born of angsty Tumblr adolescents and young adults whose glaring nostalgia for broken heart best friend necklaces and messy 90s bedrooms created a new space for misery. It’s as if the generation of young women and queers who came of age between 9/11 and the 2008 financial collapse took the entire world’s malaise upon their shoulders and turned the weight into melodramatic poetry, cutesy collages, buttons, and zines.
Audrey Wollen, an LA-based artist, describes these trends as components of Sad Girl Theory, and notes this prevailing sadness – and the behaviour of sharing it on the internet – as an act of resistance, “a gesture of liberation ... articulate and informed, ... a way of reclaiming agency over our bodies, identities, and lives.” In a similar vein exists Melissa Broder’s @sosadtoday, a Twitter account (and later, book) devoted to punny self-loathing and existential longing.
everything I did was for you but I think you were asleep— so sad today (@sosadtoday) July 13, 2014